Castagne and Caldarroste The Heartwarming Tradition of Roasted Chestnuts in Italy
As the leaves turn amber and gold across the Italian countryside, and a crisp breeze signals the arrival of autumn, the unmistakable aroma of caldarroste begins to fill the air. These roasted chestnuts, known in Italian as castagne, are more than just a seasonal snack — they’re a symbol of tradition, warmth, and community.
Whether sold piping hot on street corners in bustling cities like Rome and Milan or slowly roasted in village squares during sagra (local festivals), caldarroste represent a centuries-old custom deeply woven into the cultural fabric of Italy.
Chestnuts have been cultivated in Italy since Roman times, particularly in mountainous regions where wheat and other grains struggled to grow. In places like Tuscany, Piedmont, and Campania, chestnuts were once dubbed “il pane dei poveri” — the bread of the poor — because they were ground into flour and used in everything from polenta to bread.
In autumn, families would gather to roast chestnuts over open fires, a ritual that survives to this day, evoking nostalgic memories of home, laughter, and togetherness.
Prep Time: 15 minutes
Cook Time: 25–30 minutes
Total Time: 45 minutes
Choose plump, shiny, and unblemished chestnuts. Avoid any that feel light (a sign they’re dried out) or have holes (a sign of worms).
Using a sharp knife, cut a shallow “X” or long slit into the flat side of each chestnut. This prevents them from exploding during roasting and makes peeling easier.
Place the scored chestnuts in a bowl of water and let soak for about 30 minutes. This helps them steam a bit while roasting and softens the inner skin.
All across Italy, villages host sagre (local festivals) celebrating the chestnut harvest. One of the most famous is the Sagra delle Castagne in Marradi, Tuscany. Here, visitors can enjoy roasted chestnuts, chestnut desserts, chestnut beer, music, and parades — all in honor of the humble but mighty nut that once sustained entire communities.
Castagne and caldarroste are more than seasonal treats — they’re a sensory experience that marks the shift from autumn to winter. The smell of burning wood, the crackle of roasting shells, and the warmth of a hot chestnut in your hand bring comfort, nostalgia, and a shared connection to Italy’s rustic past.
So this autumn, whether you’re roasting over a fire in the Italian countryside or using your oven at home, let the tradition of caldarroste warm your kitchen and your heart.
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